Paul Greenberg is author of the New York Times best seller Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food (Penguin, 2010), and he is a regular contributor to the New York Times Magazine and the newspaper’s book review and opinion page. He also writes for National Geographic, GQ, Vogue, and other publications.

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“Fish need nutrients not ingredients” are the oddly prophetic words of Frederic T. Barrows, a fish nutritionist with the U.S. Department of Agriculture in Bozeman, Montana. By now, most ocean-conscious fish eaters have become familiar with the fact that fish farming, or aquaculture, has at its root one gargantuan flaw: the most valuable fish …

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